I am confident that you will enjoy the new website once opened up to the general public. What you are looking at right now is just a temporary site and the new design will be radically different and more interactive.
Thank you for your patience.
Bob
In the coming days, I will be setting up a new site design which will allow for easier access to the existing pictures but allow allow for more flexibility and other users to upload and mnage their own pictures.
Please come back soon to enjoy more pictures.
Thanks
Bob
Typically when we think of portraits, we think about one or two people and taking the subjects picture from the waist on up. This means generally a short distance away from the camera with little or no zoom required. Choosing the right camera for mainly portrait taking may seem like a simple process but can actually be a hit or a miss.
Just like our eyes are very diffferent from person to person, so are the eyes (lens) of a camera. Not all camera lenses will allow for very close up focus and very distant focus. For portraits, we typically think of a distance around 1.5 meters 2.5 meters. Make sure the camera you are interested in is tested for focus clarity in the range of 1 - 3 meters. Flash is important for low light and indoor shots therefore the flash should be located on the camera where it does not interfere with your comfortable holding position. A finger or two covering the flash means an under exposed picture that can easily be ruined.
Here is a quick list of features you should look for.
1: Great focus in the 1 - 3 meter range.
2: Easily adjustable flash strength . This is critical for close up shots in low light situations to avoid over exposure or the face being washed out.
3: Face recognition. This insures you have the face in focus and not the background or another area like the neck.
4: Multiple face recognition. This is great for group shots involving people at different distances like people standing behind others.
5: Wide angle lens. This is helpful for when you want to take pictures at parties involving a large number of people. This allows you to keep the distance from the group and the camera at a short distance to insure good focus and proper flash level when necessary. Also, allows you to get more people in the picture when the physical space is limited.
6: Image stabilization. This is important for quick shots to insure that the image taken is clear and not blurred out. Image stabilization will prevent the image from being ruined due to shaking, low light conditions where the flash does not trigger or due to a slow shutter speed.
7: Easy access to the controls and often used features like zoom, forced flash, face recognition, flash strength, white balance.
8: Recessed lens with a sliding lens cover when not in use. This is a must have feature which is sometimes over looked. No one wants to remove the lens cap each time you want to take that spontaneous photo. Also minimizes accidental finger prints or dust on the lens for those that do not have a built in lens cover.
This is just a short list and there are certainly many more features to look out for if you are seriously into portrait photography using a simple “Point and Shoot” camera. This list should at least allow you to choose a good camera nonetheless.
Scenery or landscape shots can be enhanced when you have a camera that is suited for this task specifically.
All cameras will do a good job in taking scenery shots in general. This usuaully means objects that are considered in the range of infinity. For me that range starts from about 10 meters onwards. To photograph images of distant objects the camera must be very sensitive to the light and have the ability to capture the light reflected off of distant objects with little or no distortion. Since there are no guarantees that you will be presented with the perfect lighting conditions everytime, the built in flash for the most part will not help you for these distant objects.
Here is a list of features that will help:
1: A good level of optical zoom like 5X or higher with built in image stabilization
2: Ability to adjust the aperture manually. Larger the number, the smaller the aperture (opening) selection will be and allow for better image clarity between close and distant objects. Specially between objects that fall in the shorter portrait shot distance and the more distant landscape objects.
3: Camera with a SP (scene position) setting for sunset, sunrise and night scenes. These will help in situations of extremely bright light or low light conditions.
4: Camera should have an image preview after each shot taken that can be adjusted for viewing length. Anywhere from 3 - 5 seconds is sufficient. This will allow you to see quickly if the shot was satisfactory or not without switching to picture view mode each time.
5: If at all possible, a lens thread that allows for the addition of lens filters. Filters are great for reducing glare when taking water scenes, capturing the motion of moving water while insuring the stationary object are in perfect focus, creating lens flare, enhancing certain colors. If standard filters are not available, look for adapters that allow filters on non threaded lenses. Like a magnetic mounted lens adapter.
6: Tripod mount. This is a common feature but some cameras do not have them. This can be something that is easily overlooked and should be mandatory for any camera that will be used for landscape shots. Also make sure the tripod mount is made of metal instead of plastic. Plastic threads will quickly wear out.
7: LCD display that is clearly visible in outdoor light. Therefore, check to see if the LCD has an anti-glare protection coating.
8: Wide screen and lens for wide image capturing. This will allow you to take pictures that stand out from most landscape pictures automatically. If you want to create panoramic shots, a camera that has a wider angle of image capturing will allow you to create that perfect panorama shot using fewer images. This insures that the lighting and contrast levels are more even throught the shot. Less adjusting required later of each individual shot used to create the panoramic shot.
9: Slow shutter speeds of 2 seconds or higher. 6 or 8 seconds would be ideal which allows for great night shots and also gives you more flexility during sunset or low light conditions during the day.
10: Avoid a camera that exhibits large amounts of purple fringing when taking shots which include trees in bright sunshine. The purple fringing occurs around the outer edges of the trees. You can quickly determine this by taking distant shots of trees and viewing them on the LCD screen. The range of purple fringing varies from camera to camera with some being overly prominent. Most cameras will exhibit some level of purple fringing.
These are my suggestions for features that will allow you to take good scenic shots in any condition. Hopefully you will find a camera that is suitable in the price range you have budgeted for yourself.
The original blog titled “How to Choose the Right Camera” only mentions briefly the 5 “how to” TIPS. I will be covering each tip separately in more details starting with TIP #1 and #2. “Buying a camera mainly for use during vacations, gatherings and parties”.
Many camera owners fall into a category I call the “special occasion camera buffs”. These are people that take a camera with them to weddings, parties, graduations, and other special moments. Special occasion camera buffs tend to also take their camera with them on vacations which is another special occasion. I will suggest a number of characteristics to look for in a camera that is suited for the Special Occasion Camera Buffs.
1: The main reason for attending these special occasions are not directly related to picture taking therefore a small compact camera is essential. The camera may be placed in a purse, carry bag or even in the pocket of a jacket thus outer protection is required for the camera. Two areas that need the most protection are the lens and LCD display. One simple feature to look for is a camera that has a lens that is hidden within the body of the camera and behind a protective door when not in use. This will insure that the lens will not get scratched during storage and transportation. The LCD is harder to protect and most cameras will not come with any LCD protection what so ever. To protect the LCD, a thin and soft carry case should be purchased immediately. If the camera comes with a carry case then that’s a bonus. You can always ask the salesperson if he/she can throw one in at no cost.
Some cameras have a protruding lens even in the off position. These will come with a lens cap. I would avoid a camera that extends the lens even further when turned on. Either the lens cap falls off when turned on or you have to remove the cap everytime and find a place for the cap before taking the picture. Having the lens cap attached to the body of the camera for the most part is useless since it interferes with the picturing taking. Specially when the lens cover dangles on the side. Annoying for the picture taker and also a distraction for the subjects in the picture.
2: Camera powered by AA batteries are the best option. These are easy to replace and not too expensive for rechargeable AA batteries. You can use regular alkaline batteries in a pinch too.
3: Make sure you try the camera and hold it vertically and horizontally. This will give you an idea of how well it fits in your hand. Check to make sure that finger placements do not obstruct the flash and other sensors on the camera. In low light conditions you might find the flash going off but is ineffective since a finger or two was covering the flash or other sensors.
4: Look for a flash that has adjustments like
- Red eye reduction
- Fills
- Forced flash when taking pictures facing the sun
- Ability to quickly turn the flash off when you want to maintain the dramatic contrast levels in low light conditions.
- Easy and quick access to the flash settings like flash levels for that right amount of lighting.
5: Face detection. Many cameras nowadays come with face detection which helps to insure that the face of the subject is in focus and lit properly. Also look for a camera that has multiple face recognition/detection to help with group shots.
6: Easy access to the zoom feature. Most cameras also come with at least 3X optical zoom. This feature becomes useless if the zooming controls are not located in a convenient spot based on your hand position.
7: Scene Position sittings in the range of 8 or more. Scene positions are settings suited for
- Portrait
- Landscape
- Sunny
- Cloudy
- Museum - which is an indoor silent mode of operation
- Sports
- Sunset
- Backlight
Scene position allows you to select a scene quickly and have the camera set itself to an optimal picture taking condition for that scene type.
8: Picture viewer mode that is easy to turn on and off. It is very annoying if you have to press one button to see the pictures and another different button to switch back to picture taking mode.
9: Fast focusing in low light conditions. This is a relative speed but I would say 2 seconds or less the better.
10: Support for USB 2.0. This should be standard but some cameras still use USB 1.2 which has a slower transfer rate. USB 2.0 will insure that the pictures are transfered to your computer as quickly as possible.
11: SD memory card as the storage medium type since this is the most popular type nowadays and the least expensive. Buy at least a 1 gig SD memory card right away.
These are the 11 most critical features for me and anything else that is above and beyond in user friendly features are a bonus. Keep in mind that the more features a camera has in a given point. the less quality and reliability you might experience with the camera. Panorama mode may sound like a good feature but how often will you actually use it? Try and keep the features at a minimum to insure the quality of these features will be good.
This is something many first timers have a problem with. It is not as complicated as it seems to be once you have a few simple guidelines to work with. All manufactures basically create a camera based on a price point and include features to balance out the overall manufacturing cost within that price point. The two typical features mentioned by all manufacturers are megapixels and optical zoom strength. Therefore, if a camera has a really high megapixel rating compared to other cameras in the same price point, you will lose in other areas of the cameras features like zoom. If you rarely use zoom or have little understanding of zoom then look for the higher megapixel camera. Make sure you purchase additional rechargeable batteries right away. One set to use and one set to have as a backup while the used batteries are being recharged.
Now, knowing the situations in which you will most likely take your pictures will certainly help.
1: Will they be during vacations and how often do you take vacations?
2: Will it be at gatherings like parties, restaurants and bars?
3: Mostly scenery.
4: Mostly portraits.
5: Sports or action shots including wildlife and insects.
1: Typically I would go with a small compact point and shoot camera. Choose one with easy access to picture view, picture delete, numerous scene position choices and uses easy to replace AA or AAA batteries.
2: Gatherings, restaurants and bars typically means close ups or group shots. A point and shoot will again be suitable. In this case a camera that has a good sized and bright LCD display to see in low light conditions and one that also supports multiple face recognition to insure everyones face is in proper focus.
3: Scenery is a harder category and typically requires more flexibility which an advanced compact camera will have. A strong optical zoom of 5+ is highly recommended over higher megapixels. If you can afford to maximum both megapixel and optical zoom within your price range the better. The ability to have shutter priority, aperture priority and manual setting modes are ideal.
4: Portraits are similar to gatherings but differ in that you are poised to capture the best of the individual or group. If the budget allows, a D-SLR would be a great choice. The main advantage of a D-SLR is a built in hotshoe which allows for an external flash and other accessories to be attached. If the budget does not allow for a D-SLR then an advanced compact with a good sized flash with easy access to the flash intensity adjustment is key. Face recognition is also a plus to have and opt for the highest megapixel possible and do not worry too much about the level of zoom. All cameras now come with at least 3X optical zoom and for portraits, this is plenty.
5: Sports or action shots means either you need to freeze the fast moving object or have the ability to take images quickly. All digital cameras requires some amount of time to save the image to memory before taking the next shot. For this reason, a camera that has a fast image to memory speed is important. The ability to snap sequentially in fractions of a second is highly recommended. This will allow you to capture a number of quick shots and increase your chances to capture that one award winning action shot. An advanced compact is ideal and I would suggest you maximize the amount of optical zoom avaialble.
If flowers and insects are your fashion then the added features to look for are macro with zoom and super macro (2 cm - 4 cm) with no zoom plus good imaging in low light conditions.
These are my simplified suggestions for choosing the right camera for the job. Most professionals will use a D-SLR due to the overall flexibility in automated and manual adjustments. That being said, a D-SLR is not always the best choice when the situation calls for quick shots to be taken with little or no advanced notice. Keep in mind that the salesperson can mention a wide number of features and capabilities. Try to stick to your selection of features you need and avoid unnecessary features in the end. Most cameras will have features you will rarely use or in the end not at all.
Happy camera shopping and photo shooting.
This is a question that is very difficult to pin point. Everyone has their own tastes when it comes to great photos. To break it down into simple terms, I would say it would be the combination of an interesting subject with perfect lighting. Award winning shots are those chosen by the judges to be the best among all submitted. This just means that a group of individuals chose them over other entries. You may find that some of the award winning shots you come across may not have any impact for you and this is fine. Photography is like any other art form and there will be a group that likes and a group that dislikes an image.
Basically as its been said for a long time. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”. This is the same for photography too. If you like the shot then that should be all that matters. If you are to take shots to satisfy someone else then it gets more difficult since you need to understand their taste in photography and art in general.
So what makes a perfect shot? A good subject, good lighting, good composition and a little luck. 
Take as many pictures as possible and one may turn out to be the “Perfect Shot”.
When you take shots of people, the most important feaure I find is the expression on their faces. The rest is only a need to have factor. Therefore it is not a necessity to include the whole body or majority of the body unless you are looking for a specific effect. To insure that you capture the best expression, it helps to capture the individuals in a casual unposed setting and follow these simple steps.
1: Make sure the sun and other forms of bright light is behind you only. Best is when the sun is behind you on either side.
2: Have the cameras position be below the ear lobe and ever so slightly tilted upwards.
3: Have the subjects look towards you but beyond the camera. 6 inches above the camera and beyond. This allows the eyes of the subject to be more open and natural.
4: If possbile, the subjects and the cemera should be in a shaded area for maximum facial impact. If sunlight or other strong light is directed right at the subjects, this tends to cause the subjects to squint which makes the shot look unnatural.
5: Let the subjects know you are ready to take the picture but do not count or have them say cheese because many people will flinch or squint. Just snap the shot when you feel you and the subjects are ready.
6: If you are close enough to use a flash, you can always force the camera to use the flash even though the lighting conditions may be sufficient. This can dramatically change the feel of the shot specially if you take the persons shot from an angle instead of directly in front of them.
If you are into taking shots of people in their natural environment, it is easier for you and the subject if you can distance yourself from the subject and capture them using the built in zoom. Taking the picture from a very low angle helps to bring out more emotion and create the added impact. Avoid having a camera angle that is above the subjects ear lobe. This causes unwanted shadows around the face and neck area that really detracts from the subjects natural appearance.
By applying most or all of the 6 basic steps, you will be able to grab some interesting shots of individuals.
If you have a digital camera purchased within the last 3 years or so, it may come with a fireworks scene setting. This will allow you to capture the essence of the fireworks explosion with very little effort.
You might be thinking, is it that easy?
Actually that is only one aspect of the shot you need to consider. One important consideration is getting the right timing because you want to capture the explosion which occurs over time like 2 - 4 seconds. Since you are forced to use a long shutter exposure, you need to take into account issues that can ruin a great fireworks shot.
1: Camera must be perfectly still to avoid blurring. This can be achieved by using a tripod with a good locking mechanism for all moving parts.
2: Use the automated timer if possible with the tripod to avoid your shutter button depression shaking the camera.
3: Street lights and building lights will be over exposed therefore avoid including them whenever possible.
4: Shutter speed being too short thus you lose the full impact of the fireworks.
5: Avoid being too close to the location of the fireworks. If you are too close, you are forced to look higher up to capture the fireworks. This means that there are no objects for the camera to focus on before the firework appears in the frame. You can have a great image if you are far enough away that the firworks can be taken at a 30 - 45 degree angle. This will allow distant objects to be included in the shot that can be focused on as a distant object. Focusing in an object that is considered a near object will cause the fireworks to be out of focus.
The best situation is to be where the fireworks are taking place over water. This will allow you to take the fireworks and the reflection off the water at the same time. Since the area before the explosion should be dark or almost dark, that you can easily trigger the shutter before the explosion and close after the explosion. This means a shutter setting of 4 - 7 seconds. You will need to change the cameras settings manually instead of relying on the fireworks settings.
When setting the shutter speed manually, make sure you also adjust the ISO setting and select 400 which is the normal night setting. You can always play around with this and use a slightly higher or lower setting also. This adjustment can also work well when using the fireworks scene setting on some cameras. Play around with different ISO settings between 200 - 600 to get the right level of brightness and color.
It is always important to add some excitement to an otherwise static picture.
This can be in the form of:
1: Color contrasts
2: Lighting
3: Movement
4: Textural differences
All of the above help but the impact can easily be lost without the proper composition. This is where the “Rule of Thirds” is commonly used. This rule is very simple once you understand the basics. First, take your image frame and imagine 2 horizontal and 2 vertical lines evenly spaced within the frame. Now look at the areas where the lines intersect, Anyone of the 4 intersections is a great location for placing your main subject when taking your shot. What this does is create a shot where either the viewers eye moves towards that section of the shot or moves away from that section depending on the overall shot taken.
By using the rule of thirds, you create a shot which allows the viewers eye to move across the shot making it more dramatic and interesting. Try taking two of the same shots. One where the subject is right in the middle and another where the subject is within one of the 4 intersected regions. You will certainly notice a difference in the shots impact when using the “Rule of Thirds”.